Week 16 & 17 Carnarvon-Denham-Kalbarri-Geraldton

We're continuing our journey southward and have up till now enjoyed
warm, sunny weather. It's been wonderful for touring and we've certainly
become quite used to this warmer climate but thankfully it's not been
above 30C too often. While in Geraldton a cool change arrived and we 
had to get out something other than shorts, t-shirts and sandals.

Okay we know you're all waiting for the next episode so on we go
then with our blog as we travel along the Indian Ocean......

Carnarvon

This sign is the introduction to Point Quobba just north of Carnarvon at

the Blowholes. The surf can be very dangerous and people have been killed

when they've stood too close to the huge waves which happen at varying times.

Here is the largest Blowhole in action but it's only low tide now. Imagine

then how dangerous it would be for those people standing on the rock at

high tide when  water sprays up to 20 metres into the air and onto the

ledge with great force from the blowholes and the waves.

There is a sign before the rock ledge warning of the danger here.

Gerry's standing on another rock ledge near the Blowholes as

this wave crashes over. We both got wet!

This sign along the coast near Point Quobba has the shape of the HMAS

Sydney (11) cut out of the metal. It looks like the writing is light blue in

colour but just like the ship it's been cut out of the metal. The light blue

colour is the sky behind it. In 1941 HMAS Sydney was caught in a battle

with German cruiser HSK Kormoran. Both ships sank with apparently no

survivors from HMAS Sydney's complement of 645, whilst 80 perished

in Kormoran leaving some German survivors. The absence of Australian

survivors left many questions on the precise circumstance of the loss

which continues to arouse controversy.

Now for a bit of 4-wheel driving just a little further up the coast.

"Let's try this track." Gerry said! Then.... "Oh we're stuck!"

 But it didn't take too long to get back on track. His excuse for

taking this track was that it looked more interesting than the

first track which was not as challenging.

The rear right wheel is certainly not in its usual position! 'But hey that's

what 4-wheel driving is all about isn't it boys?' Funny how the rear

wheels kept sinking further when Gerry initally tried to drive out of it.

Let's start by clearing out some of the sand from under 

the left side of the car where it's bottomed.

This is the condition of the track! Piece of cake hey!

After all that excitement it's time for a bit of lunch at this stunning

section of coastal scenery on the Indian Ocean. Cape Cuvier in the 

distance is where salt is loaded onto boats at the jetty.

There were several boats anchored off-shore awaiting loading.

 

                                                       

                                       It's amazing how these wildflowers flowers can grow

                                           so well in such rough, rocky, coastal terrain.

Shark Bay

Shark Bay was discovered in 1616 by Dutch Captain Dirk Hartog

who stepped ashore at Cape Inscription (Dirk Hartog Island) to

become the first recorded European to set foot on Australian soil. 

Dutch Captain De Vlamingh revisted the site in 1697 and  the

Vlamingh lighthouse in Cape Range National Park bears his name. 

The Aboriginal name for Shark Bay is 'Gathaagudu' meaning 'two

bays'. The Malgana tribe are the traditional owners of Shark Bay.

 

Shark Bay's Hamelin Pool

 Hamelin Pool has this long boardwalk for viewing Stromatolites.

Stromatolites are rock-like structures built by microbes

(single-celled cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae).

Shark Bay’s stromatolites are only 2,000 to 3,000 years old, but they are

similar to life forms found on Earth up to 3.5 billion years ago! They

provide a unique insight into what the world was like at the dawn of time.

Above are living Stromatolites and below are some red capped

ones that stopped growing about 500-1000 years ago when the

sea level fell. The reason for the red cap is uncertain but possibly

due to pigment of visiting bacteria.

Perhaps the scientists among you may appreciate this information!

And while we were checking out the Stromatolites, this little

guy has perched himself on a rock to check us out! Or should I say

glare at us! Doesn't look too impressed does he?

Also at Hamelin Pool, this old little grave tells a sad story of a tragic time

for the parents of 7 month old Thomas who died in 1898 from either

typhoid or cholera while travelling with them from the Old Port of

Cossack to Denham.

This is a Shell Quarry at Hamelin Pool.

The compacted shell was once quarried for building blocks but it's now

only used to repair any historic buildings made out of shell in Denham. 

A close up picture of a shell block. Shell grit has been mined at

Shell Beach since the early 1960's - see below....

Shell Beach is an amazing pure white beach that has been created

naturally from hundreds of millions of tiny shells (Fragum cockles).

Masses of shells have been drifting in for about 4000 years and

they are five metres deep here and still piling up.

Shells in the ridges gradually cement together. 

The water at the beach is crystal clear and it's apparently an ideal

swimming and picnic spot. I guess though it wouldn't be good

for bathing a-la-naturale! A bit rough for that maybe??

(Oh well at least we had Cable Beach and Doolena Gorge!)

Here's a close up picture of the tiniest shells. Loose shells are used

for footpaths and parking areas as well as landscaping around buildings.

Denham

Denham is the small town on Shark Bay which has limited shops

but it's a picturesque seaside village and a great opportunity

for a little time on our bikes. You can tell the weather's still

warm by Gerry's Karumba uniform - at least that's what Keith

calls it. We'd no sooner arrived in Karumba when Keith announced

it was time to wear his uniform - by that he meant a singlet top.

That's about all you need there apart from shorts. Karumba was 

some time ago now but Gerry's still enjoying his uniform Keith.

And here's another photo of the sleepy village of Denham.

Monkey Mia

Yes like all the other tourists before us this was one of those places you just

have to visit. At around 8am dolphins gather close to shore knowing that

they will be fed at that time. They left after getting their fish but about an

hour later they were back for more. This time most of the crowd had left

and I was offered the chance to feed a dolphin.

You must hold the fish under the water for the dolphin to take

it and you are asked to not touch dolphins for their own protection.

However it was still a good experience just to be near them.

It was as though he came back to say thanks! I think you'd agree

dolphins are beautiful creatures.

The next day we headed for the Peron Homestead a former

sheep station located in the Francois Peron National Park.

The artesian hot tub of naturally heated water was about 40C

and we could only take it in short bursts but it was certainly

very relaxing. While we enjoyed the hot tub, right behind us

the emus were enjoying their bath.....take a look below....

First one's under and it must have been good because it

wasn't long before.....

 

they were both in up to their necks! We didn't think emus

were into swimming.

Kalbarri

 Kalbarri is another great little seaside place to visit. We could

have easily stayed on here for longer as it's not just a place for

adventure, but also a good spot to just relax or take a leasurely

stroll around the town.

Wildflowers in Kalbarri line the bike/walk path to Red Bluff.

The colours of Kalbarri's Red Bluff above and below....

Check out the thin wedge this guy is standing on! There are warnings

all around here to stay away from the edges as underneath the

limestone is quite soft and crumbly and can break away at any time.

Beneath the Red Bluff lookout.... and below....

....atop the Lookout with a view of the Kalbarri township at

the mouth of the Murchison River at the inlet at top of photo.

Kalbarri National Park

Nature's Window is one of the features in the

park and below is the lookout at Z-Bend.

We loved the view into the valleys below. This is one trip we chose to

take with a tour company as it was the only opportunity to canoe the

gorge. The 4x4 bus took us into an area of the national park which is not

accessible to the public.

After a steep descent into the valley, we walked along the river to get

to the spot where the canoes are stored and after a short lunch break...

....we were off to collect our canoes.

The beauty and serenity of the gorge - that's the tip of our

canoe and below we're gliding in underneath the rock.

Here we are rowing together. We canoed for 6kms in the

 gorge but you could do a shorter distance if you wanted.

The total hiking distance was also 6kms. 

After the canoe trip we had a steep climb back out of the gorge.

Our hiking boots came in real handy. These kids also managed it

with some help from the tour operator who was a real character.

Part way to the top we had a good view of the gorge below

where we enjoyed the canoe trip. Now we move on to.......

Geraldton

In Geraldton we stayed at the Bellaire Caravan Park on

Point Moore (see black dot at left of photo) in between

Pages Beach and Greys Beach. It was a great spot and only

a 2.5km walk into town along a walk/bike path.

A very nice park with large, grassy sights.

Geraldton's St Francis Xavier Cathedral, the corner stone 

(white patch at bottom left) was laid in 1870 in the original

cathedral but relaid when it was rebuilt in 1916.

This stained glass window in the cathedral was donated

by the wife of a man who died in 1889 at age 60. This

window along with others also donated early last century,

have started to bulge out from the heat of the sun but

that's not bad considering how old they are.

Geraldton's Victoria House Visitor Centre was originally

the Victoria Hospital built in 1887.

With our bikes parked outside, it was time to enjoy

a coffee with some delicious apple strudel at 'The Dome'

on the waterfront before heading back to camp.

We departed Geraldton on September 2nd and have been

to the wildflower district as well as New Norcia and are

now in Mandurah. Once we get more photos sorted there'll

be another blog update but it may still take a little while as

we've been quite busy sightseeing and enjoying this

wonderful country as well as catching up with my

sister Ronni and her partner Brett here in Mandurah.

And just a message for all our footy mad family,

 GO CATS!

Luckily we've been able to see quite a few of the

 games up till now with our Satellite TV Dish.

Till next blog.......Keep safe.